Sunday, 27 March 2016

Sneak Peek : ‘TATTVA’ by Urvashi Kaur – Lakme Fashion Week S/R 2016

The worlds of fashion and art often intersect and intermingle, and designers are continually absorbing and assimilating inspirations from path-breaking new artists.  African artist Eddy Iluanga Kamuanga is one such artist who creates large scale paintings that are bold, political and graphic. One of his striking works on view at the Saatchi Art Gallery stayed with Urvashi who was visiting London at the time. Featuring a woman in a red headscarf with her back turned to the viewer, it was a powerful image representing the upheavals and challenges of our times.

But the freshness of Spring signals new beginnings and reincarnations. Building around this theme of the need for rebirth in our world, Urvashi Kaur explores a new chapter with her SS16 collection

In a departure from her muted palette Urvashi opts for a powerful scheme of primary red and blue, paired with whites and ivories, with a dose of grey and black to create balance and gravity. These dramatic color choices find expression in myriad graphic block prints, with hand drawn geometric elements. Added to this is placement block printing which reflects the cube like visual features in the painting. These colorful prints appear both on opaque as well as translucent fabrics, adding an aspect of lightness in places, and of depth in some. Ombre dyeing delicately desaturates vibrant color in the softest mul mul, while clamp dyeing techniques create kaleidoscopic patterns that speak of resistance and strength. Minute ruching and fine hand-pleating, both signature Urvashi Kaur features, work towards a contrast of control and release.  In certain key silhouettes, sheer matka silk overlays  with shibori patterns, cover rippling knife pleats in linen, suggesting turmoil under calm surfaces. Volume is carefully added into the collection by way of flared pants in sheer noile and crisp cotton culottes, along with tent dresses and asymmetric slip dresses while sharply tailored shirt-dresses and suits introduce structure to the line.

Other key pieces will include separates, skirts and re-imagined tunics in solids and quirky in print on print pairings. Grain khadi Jumpsuit makes its way into this collection, in a relaxed, sports-luxe avatar. Frayed seams and edges, hints at the frictions of generations gone by.

Urvashi Kaur will be showcasing her SS16 collection, 'Tattva' at the upcoming Lakme fashion week in Mumbai on 1st April at 3pm.

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